Roncesvalles to Zubiri: the first day in Spain

The first full day in Spain leaves Roncesvalles, crosses the plain to Burguete and climbs through the woods over two low passes: 21.3 km on our track, with 263 m of climbing and 668 m of descent. All the climbing is done by the Alto de Erro, 17.9 km out. Then the last 3.5 km fall 268 m over rock to the medieval bridge at Zubiri, where, the legend says, animals were cured of rabies.

The drop into Zubiri, measured

Guides warn about the end of this day, and the profile shows why. From the Alto de Erro to the bridge is 3.5 km, and the path loses 268 m without climbing once: 8% on average. That is 40% of the day’s descent in the last 16% of its distance. The steepest half kilometre comes right at the end: 72 m down, 14%, finishing 0.2 km before the bridge. Before the Alto de Erro the day is kinder: 17.9 km with 263 m up and 400 m down, spread out.

The Rabies Bridge

The Puente de la Rabia crosses the Arga at the edge of Zubiri, and gives the village its name: Zubiri is Basque for “village of the bridge”. Documents mention a bridge here in the 11th century; the one standing is described as Romanesque, from the 12th. Its name comes from a legend: an animal with rabies, led three times round the central pillar, would be cured. Pilgrims of the Middle Ages believed that the remains of Santa Quiteria, the saint prayed to against rabies, lay in its pillars. In the Carlist wars the bridge was a military target, defended by Tomás de Zumalacárregui. Today the Zubiri to Pamplona half marathon starts on it.

Burguete, Espinal and the church of Roncesvalles

The church you leave at dawn was built for Sancho VII the Strong, king of Navarre, between about 1215 and 1221, and he is buried in it; it is held to be the best Gothic in Navarra, in the style of the Paris region. Burguete, Auritz in Basque, grew up on the plain below the pilgrim hospital of Roncesvalles: the widest plain in the Pyrenees, about 900 m up, with beech woods on the slopes round it. Espinal is Aurizberri in Basque, “new Auritz”: King Theobald II of Navarre founded it on the Camino in the 13th century.

The day in figures

On our plan of the Camino Francés this is day 2 of 36 from Saint-Jean: Roncesvalles to Zubiri, 21.3 km with 263 m of climbing and 668 m of descent. The day before, over the Pyrenees from Saint-Jean, is 25.9 km with 1,351 m of climbing. The day after, Zubiri to Pamplona, is 20.2 km with 187 m; Larrasoaña is 5.3 km on from Zubiri. Zubiri is 47.3 km from Saint-Jean and 721.3 km from Santiago.

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Starting here, the whole walk: the Camino from Roncesvalles, day by day.

The day after ends in the city: the Camino from Pamplona.

Every stage of the Francés, one by one: the stages guide.

Distances, climbs and days are measured on our track of the Camino Francés, the same rows the Roncesvalles and Pamplona pages print. The villages, the two passes and the bridge are placed on that track from OpenStreetMap, and the steepest half kilometre is found by sliding a half-kilometre window along our profile. The bridge, its legend and its history are from the Spanish Wikipedia on the Puente de la Rabia and on Zubiri; Burguete and its plain from the article on Burguete, Espinal from the article on Espinal, and the church of Roncesvalles from the article on the Real Colegiata.

Common questions

How far is it from Roncesvalles to Zubiri?

21.3 km on our track, with 263 m of climbing and 668 m of descent.

Is the descent into Zubiri steep?

Yes, at the end. From the Alto de Erro the path drops 268 m in 3.5 km, 8% on average, and its steepest half kilometre, just before the bridge, is 14%.

Where does the day from Roncesvalles climb?

In short climbs through the woods: up to the Alto de Mezkiritz, 8.3 km out, and out of the valley of Erro to the Alto de Erro, 17.9 km out. By the Alto de Erro all 263 m are climbed.

Why is it called the Rabies Bridge?

A legend says an animal led three times round its central pillar was cured of rabies. Pilgrims believed the remains of Santa Quiteria, the saint prayed to against rabies, lay in its pillars.

What does Zubiri mean?

“Village of the bridge”, in Basque: zubi is bridge and iri is village.

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